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The bicycle chain is a complex construct. It must fit to the bikes gears, have the right length (chain link count) and width (pins). In our bicycle chain knowledge base we provide you with all the basics and fundamentals on that topic. So you know which chain fits your bike best!
Whether a bicycle chain will fit your bike or not mainly depends on your shifting. Your drivetrain determines which chain is compatible. For this we give you tips on how to find the right chain for your bike. An unsuitable chain leads to bad shifting performance, a higher wear on all drivetrain components and the chain is more likely to break.
The right bicycle chain
When buying a new bicycle chain, you need to check what type of shifting and how many gears your bike has. Take a look at the bikes gear (sprockets and chainrings).
Compatibility – be careful before buying
Bicycle parts are rarely standardized, not every brake lever fits every handlebar. Not every handlebar to every stem, etc. Read here our tips on bicycle chain compatibility – here’s what you need to look out for:
- With the new chain, the most important thing is that it fits your bikes shifting. The chains pins must be of different length depending on how many sprockets (gears) in the rear you have. Bicycles without an external derailleur (rear shifting) or with hub gears have wider bicycle chains. So do single speeds and fixie/track bikes. For bikes equipped with a rear derailleur, all depends on the number of sprockets at the back of the bike.
- New bicycle chains are usually too long (count of chain links). Because on assembly it is assumed that you first shorten the chain to the right length (with the help of a chain riveter tool), fitting to your bikes sprocket and chainrings size.
Two types are distinguished: Many Sprockets vs Single Sprocket.
Derailleur (many sprockets, external gear shifting) 
Hub gears / single speed / fixie / track bike (single sprocket, internal gears)
- Do you shift by hub or derailleur? The hub gear has only one sprocket on the rear wheel, the rear shifting is hidden in the wheel (the hub). With derailleur shifting on the other hand, you have 5-13 sprockets at the rear and 1-3 chainrings at the front. (This then results in a drivetrain with 18, 21, 24 or more gear combinations – but at this point only the number of rear sprockets is relevant).
- If it is a hub gear: is it a narrow or wide hub gear? A wide hub gear can be identified by the fact that the sprocket is much wider than in a derailleur actuated shifter. If you are unsure, go for the wider chain – this always fits and is generally more recommended for hub gears.
- If it is a derailleur: count the rear sprockets. The number of sprockets is decisive for the choice of the right chain.
- Or do you have no gear – are you on the road with a track bike / singlespeed? Then scroll down all the way to the tips below.
So what bicycle chain do I need?
We assume you now know what shifting you have (external derailleur and count of sprockets in the rear OR a hub gear). Which chain goes with it? Generally, the chains are distinguished by their links (width) and the length of the chain (defined by the number of chain links). In addition, quality is an important criterion, because not all cheap chains are made with a lot of quality control. We recommend investing a few bucks more here. A poorly made chain that wears quickly also leads to faster wear on the sprockets and chainrings – which are generally more expensive than a chain alone. Read more about it in our guide to the chain gauge, which is used to determine the wear of the chain.
Differences and characteristics of the bicycle chains
Chains are distinguished primarily by the length of the pin (connecting pin) and the width of the rollers (rings within the individual chain links).
All bicycle chain links are the same length (pin to pin) – no matter the shifting! Only the width is decisive.
But it’s not the length (1/2 inch) that matters, it’s the width. Because on the basis of the width decides whether it fits your bikes drivetrain and shifting. There are two types of bicycle chain construction forms and two relevant sizes in width: pin length (equivalent to outer width) and inner width.
For chain size, there is always the specification of length times width, e.g. 1/2” x 3/32”. This means that the chain has an inner width of 3/32 inch (2.2mm).
As a rule of thumb, the inner width is always specified, since most chains today are “bearing collar chains” and here the inner width determines how flexible a chain is. The more gears, the more flexible the chain must be. The pin length is also important, because the inner width of modern chains can not get any smaller (about 2.2mm), so the pin length is also getting smaller.
Common bicycle chain widths
- 1/2″ x 11/128″ ~ 2.2mm – pin length approx 5.6 mm: Derailleur with 11 sprockets (for example, for 2 x 11 gears),
- 1/2″ x 11/128″ ~ 2.2mm – pin length approx 6.0mm: Derailleur with 10 sprockets (e.g. for 3 x 10 gears)
- 1/2″ x 11/128″ ~ 2.2mm – Pin length approx 6.5mm to 7.0mm: Derailleur with 9 sprockets (e.g. for 3 x 9 gears)
- 1/2″ x 3/32″ ~ 2.4mm – Pin length > 7.0mm: Derailleur with 5, 6, 7 and 8 sprockets (e.g. for older steel road bikes with compact cassettes)
- 1/2″ x 1/8″ ~ 3.2mm – pin length approx 9.0mm: in combination with 1/8″ (inch) chains (with wide hub gears, singlespeed, fixie or track bike)
IMPORTANT: Down it goes – but never up! This means a narrow chain (11-speed) will also always work on 10-, 9-, 8-speed, etc. (although this is not optimal). However, a “wide” chain (8-speed or hub) will not be compatible at all with 9-, 10-, 11-speed.
The “pin length” refers to the pin that holds the individual parts of a chain link together. The shorter the bolt, the more clearance the lugs and rollers have between them. This makes the chain more flexible and gives it greater leeway when shifting gears. With longer pins, on the other hand, the chain sits more stable on the sprockets and it is less likely that the chain will drop off.
Master pin or chain link?
Another criterion of the bicycle chain is the method of installing the new chain to the bike. After all, the chain sits on the sprockets between the frames chain stays – so you would have to open either the frame or the chain to attach and remove the chain. Logically, therefore, new chains come in open form.
New bicycle chains come with either a pin or a quick-link lock system. In the first variant, you use the pin to connect the two ends of the bicycle chain. This then makes the connecting link indistinguishable from the other links. Here you need a chain riveter to close and reopen the bicycle chain.
In a quick-link lock system, the chain has a special connecting link, on which you can open the chain again later. These chain lock systems have different names depending on the manufacturer, such as “Missing Link”, “Snap On” or simply call them quick-links (as most do). Rarely they are called master links.
More on the subject of chain locks can be found in the in depth article:
Bicycle chains for singlespeed, fixie and hub gears
Letzte Aktualisierung am 2024-07-15 / Affiliate Links / Bilder von der Amazon Product Advertising API
The wider 9mm chains usually fit all singlespeed bikes, track (fixie) bikes and bikes with hub gears. Here the pin and roller in the chain are wider. These chains should never be used with derailleurs (external shifting mechanism). These chains are also referred to as 1/2-inch x 1/8-inch chains. For the chain for a track racing bike, you should take a stronger, high-quality chain, because these bikes are more stressed.
Such chains are less mobile and more resilient to wear, as they need to be less flexible. After all, unlike bicycle chains for classic derailleurs, they don’t have to perform the constant action of jumping left and right.
Chains for narrow hub gears
In addition to these chains for wide hub gears, there are also special chains for narrow hub gears from some manufacturers. Sometimes these chains have the addition “Narrow”. These chains are usually about 7mm wide and are therefore also much lighter than the 9mm chains.
It is usually easiest to choose a rather wide chain for hub gears. However, this is much heavier and provides more wear, because this has more play and constantly slips back and forth on the pinions. If you decide to go with a narrower (or simply “Narrow”) chain, make sure that the sprocket is also suitable for it! The manufacturers of the hub gears usually specify this accordingly.
Some of these “Narrow” chains are built a little more flexible and are also suitable for 5- to 7-speed derailleurs. So you can also experiment with it, if you feel like it 😉
Bicycle chains for derailleurs
The derailleur has been fully established since the 50s. Even today you can still find hub gears, but the vast majority of bikes are equipped with derailleur based shifting. It is easier to manufacture and adjust. Although it needs more frequent maintenance.
Below we give you tips for chains specifically for road bikes and mountain bikes. Since these groups have very pronounced demands on the material.
A general guide for bicycle chains by gear type (number of gears, as 8-speed, 9-speed, 10-speed, etc.) can be found here:
The chains for bikes with derailleur depends on the number of sprockets in the rear derailleur. Count the gears (sprockets) on your rear wheel. This number indicates which chain you need. A distinction must be made between 9-speed, 10-speed, 11-speed,12-speed, 13-speed and the drivetrains with less gears. The 6-, 7- and 8-speed gears belong together and use the same bicycle chains.
Best bicycle chains for road bikes
Especially as a road cyclist you think a lot about efficiency. How effective is the power transmission on the chain? Is there unnecessary friction? Loss of power due to a poorly maintained chain? We also give a lot of thought to the lubrication of the bicycle chain. But with the chain, people often reach out for the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) or name whose logo is printed large all over the drivetrain. Shimano? SRAM? But why settle for that?
Australian Adam Kerin has tested several hundred chains over several thousand kilometers and published his insights on the Zero Friction Cycling website. And published his findings in an impressive study. We also rely on these test results to find the best bicycle chain for road bikes.
Ausgezeichnet mit Shimano Schaltungen
Ausgezeichnet mit Shimano Schaltungen
Besonders gut mit Shimano, SRAM und Campagnolo Schaltungen
Ausgezeichnet mit Shimano Schaltungen
Ausgezeichnet mit Shimano Schaltungen
Besonders gut mit Shimano, SRAM und Campagnolo Schaltungen
Letzte Aktualisierung am 2024-07-16 / Affiliate Links / Bilder von der Amazon Product Advertising API
In short, the best chains are actually often those that come from the same manufacturer as the drivetrain parts (shifting, cranks, chainrings and sprockets). A Shimano chain is perfectly matched to the Shimano sprockets. And SRAM chains accordingly to the SRAM drivetrain. However, independent manufacturers such as KMC also show that they can produce very low-maintenance and durable products. You can find even more tips summarized on CyclingTips.com.
The best MTB chains
12-speed drivetrains are still relatively new, but they are becoming more and more widespread. These bikes no longer have a front derailleur at the front, but shift only through the rear derailleur. 13-by drivetrains have also already been presented (ie. Campagnolos EKAR group set). Such exotics are seen mainly in mountain and offroad/gravel bikes.
However, the tolerances for the 12 and more gears are simply incredibly small. These circuits tend to be very sensitive and difficult to adjust. Since even small inaccuracies lead to errors in the shifting. But that’s a whole separate topic. For MTB the following chains have proven themselves.
Letzte Aktualisierung am 2024-07-15 / Affiliate Links / Bilder von der Amazon Product Advertising API
Still unsure which bicycle chain is right for you? Just drop us a line in the comments if you have any questions.
FAQ
HG bicycle chains are the Hyperglide series bicycle chains from Shimano. The vast majority of new Shimano chains are Hyperglide. These fit from the shape especially also on Hyperglide sprockets from Shimano. In fact, however, Hyperglide and non-Hyperglide are compatible without any problems. Only what concerns the IG system (Interactive Glide) from Shimano, there are compatibility problems with other chains! An IG sprocket needs an IG chain.
No single person can be identified who was responsible for the use of a chain drive on a bicycle. In fact, various people were working on a safety low wheel in the late 1870s, using chain drives. The main aim was to make the bikes – which were still high-sided at the time – safer and to move the driver’s seat further back and further down. The English designer John Kemp Starley made the breakthrough with the chain-driven Rover, which he designed in 1884. Within a few years, the design proved itself and caught on – the modern bicycle was born.
There are several historical theories, but they are only speculations. Maybe it’s because the chain drive was invented in England and people there drive on the left road side, so they tend to get on their bikes from the left. Or because traditionally, even with the horse, you always get on the bike from the left. But maybe it’s simply because most people are right-handed and therefore guide their bike from the left and get on from the left. Common to all theories is the basic assumption that the chain should be on the other side than the one from which you get on the bike. Otherwise you get your pants dirty or your foot caught in the chain.
Depending on the quality of the chain, the price can vary greatly. For normal use, however, an inexpensive chain is already sufficient – as long as it is made by a quality manufacturer such as Shimano, Connex or KMC. Online you can get chains from these manufacturers for under 10 euros/dollars. A really high-performance chain that can withstand thousands of kilometers without wear can cost over 40 or 60 bucks – but is much more durable. We would advise against any third-party manufacturers and bicycle chains from the grocery store.
What you need to consider when buying a new bicycle chain, you will learn in our section The right bicycle chain. In short, it is about the chain fits the gear of your bike and the number of rear sprockets!
This is about the number of sprockets on the rear hub. Because the more sprockets you have at the back of the bike, the narrower and more flexible the chain must be. A 9-speed chain, for example, should therefore only be used on a bike that has 9 sprockets at the back.
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